The taste of Lake Balaton: discover the secrets of halászlé
Halászlé (Hungarian fisherman's soup) first appeared as a term in the 18th century, but it actually dates back further. The original version was simpler, made only of fish, water and salt. Its nutritional value grew after tomatoes and paprika were added. Its two best-known versions were shaped in Szeged and Baja: the Szeged version developed according to life on the River Tisza, while the Baja version was shaped by the Danube and Serbian influences. The biggest differences between the soups lie in the vegetables and spices added and the way the fish is cut. According to historical sources, seasoning the soup during cooking is a modern 'invention'; in the past, fish, salt and water were the basis. Today halászlé is cooked not only on the riverbank but also in home kitchens, with more and more varied recipes.
The taste of Lake Balaton: a guide to making the perfect halászlé
Ingredients:
brown bullhead catfish, bream, asp, Prussian carp, carp, fish roe, 6 small onions, salt, 2 cloves of garlic, 6 bay leaves, 2 dl Olaszrizling wine, ground sweet paprika, 2 tablespoons Mangalica lard, 1 tomato, 2 teaspoons hot ground paprika.
First prepare the ingredients for the stock. Chop two small onions and scatter them in the bottom of the cauldron (pot). Add the cleaned, salted head of the catfish, the asp, bream, carp and the head of the carp, from which you have removed the pharyngeal teeth. Put another 2 chopped onions on top of the fish. Add the peeled garlic cloves and the bay leaves. Salt, cover with water and 1 dl wine, and bring to the boil. Do not stir while it cooks – just gently shake the pot.
Fillet the carp and score the flesh every 2 millimetres to cut through the fine bones. Fillet the catfish as well, but as it has no small bones, there is no need to score it. Cut both fillets into smaller pieces, salt them, sprinkle with ground paprika and set aside on a plate. Add the cleaned carp and catfish backbones to the stock and keep cooking them together. Cut the fish roe into smaller pieces too.
When the stock is well cooked, take out the fish heads and backbones. Let them cool a little, then pick the meat off into a separate bowl and set the larger bones aside. This makes it easier to strain the fish. Press the fish through a coarse sieve into the stock. Pour everything into a large bowl, and in the empty cauldron fry another 2 finely chopped onions in the Mangalica lard. Sprinkle with 3 tablespoons of paprika, add a little wine and the stock. Bring to the boil and add the prepared fish fillets. Add the roe as well, and finally season with tomato wedges and hot paprika. Shake the cauldron now and then, but never stir, or the fish will break up. Serve after 15–20 minutes.